10/13/2023 0 Comments Raspberry pi zero headless setup usb![]() ![]() ![]() Also consider using more power-efficient applications that don't require a large stack of software (e.g. Unless you absolutely need something running, don't install it. ![]() If you're running five or six daemons on your Raspberry Pi, those daemons can waste energy as they cause the processor (or other subsystems) to wake and use extra power frequently. If you don't care to waste 5+ mA for each LED on your Raspberry Pi, you can disable the ACT LED on the Pi Zero.Įvery active device you plug into the Raspberry Pi will consume some energy even a mouse or a simple keyboard will eat up 50-100 mA! If you don't need it, don't plug it in. Add the line to /etc/rc.local to disable HDMI on boot. If you're running a headless Raspberry Pi, there's no need to power the display circuitry, and you can save a little power by running /usr/bin/tvservice -o ( -p to re-enable). I decided to spend some time testing these theoretical power-saving techniques on my Pi Zero, and here are some of the tips I've come up with (note that these techniques work with any Pi, not just the Zero): Technique Yesterday my post comparing the Raspberry Pi Zero's power consumption to other Pis hit the Hacker News front page, and commenters there offered a few suggestions that could be used to reduce the power draw even further, including disabling HDMI, changing the overclock settings, and futzing with the lone ACT LED. Update : With the new Pi Zero 2 W, you can also disable some of the CPU cores to reduce power consumption for a heavily-utilized Pi if it doesn't need all the CPU cores running. Seems the Pi Zero is only incrementally better than the A+-still excellent news, but not nearly as amazing as I originally thought :( I've updated the numbers in the post below to reflect this change. ![]() This seems to be more in line with the results others were measuring with much more expensive/accurate meters in the Raspberry Pi forums: Raspberry Pi Zero power consumption. Update : I bought a PowerJive USB power meter and re-tested everything, and came up with ~80 mA instead of the ~30 mA reported by the Charger Doctor that I was using prior. ![]()
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